Light in lux · Interactive lookup

How Many Lux Do Plants Need?

You searched with a number in hand, or you are about to take one. Type it in below and get the tier it lands in, the plants that sit there, and the one thing the number cannot tell you.

Four tiers, from 270 lux upWorks in lux or foot-candlesRuns in your browser
The honest version
A light reading answers for the spot. It cannot answer for the plant.

2,200 lux is generous for a pothos and thin for a croton. The number only becomes an answer once it meets a species, which is exactly what the lookup below does.

Check your spot, free, no download

Most light guides answer in adjectives. Bright indirect, medium, dappled shade. If you are here, you have probably moved past that: you have a meter reading, a number from a grow light manual, or a phone app telling you the shelf reads 1,400 lux. What you need now is the missing half of the sentence, the part that says what 1,400 lux is actually enough for.

Here it is as a lookup. Type your reading, or tap one of the presets.

Your light reading

Tier boundaries follow the foot-candle brackets interior growers have used for decades, converted to lux. They are conventions, not physics: treat readings near a line as belonging to both sides of it.

The four tiers, and who lives in each

Nearly every houseplant you can buy is sold into one of four light tiers. The boundaries below are the classic interior-growing brackets, written in both units. Our own care data files each species into the same four tiers, which is where the plant lists on this page come from.

TierFoot-candlesLux, roughlyWhat it means in a room
Low25–75270–800A few metres from a window, or a north room. Survival light for tough species; nothing grows fast here.
Medium75–150800–1,600The middle of a decently lit room. The big foliage group is comfortable from here up.
High150–1,0001,600–10,800Near a window without midday sun on the leaves. Where bright-light plants actually want to live.
Very high1,000+10,800+Sun on the sill for part of the day. Succulents, citrus and most herbs only really run here.

Two things about that table are worth saying plainly. The tiers overlap in practice, because a plant does not read the bracket it was filed under. And the lux column is rounded on purpose: a boundary like 800 lux is a convention that different references draw at slightly different places, so a reading of 750 is not meaningfully different from one of 850.

What sits in each tier

These are common, buyable examples from our care library rather than a complete roll call. If your reading landed in a tier above, these are the plants the number is enough for.

Low tier, from 270 lux

  • Snake plant
  • ZZ plant
  • Peace lily
  • Heartleaf philodendron
  • Chinese evergreen
  • Cast iron plant

Medium tier, from 800 lux

  • Pothos
  • Monstera
  • Spider plant
  • Pilea
  • Satin pothos
  • Phalaenopsis orchid

High tier, from 1,600 lux

  • Fiddle leaf fig
  • Rubber plant
  • Hoya
  • Croton
  • African violet

Very high, sun on the sill

  • Jade
  • Succulents
  • A small citrus
  • Sun-loving herbs like basil & rosemary

A plant listed in a lower tier is almost always happy in the tier above it, within reason. The reverse is where trouble starts: a high-tier plant in a medium-tier spot declines slowly enough that the light rarely gets the blame.

Where did your number come from?

The tier lookup is only as honest as the reading you feed it, and readings go wrong in predictable ways. A number taken at eye level, by the window, at noon, describes the brightest moment of the best spot in the room. The plant lives somewhere else: lower, further in, and all day long.

If you are using a phone as the meter, lay the phone down flat at the spot the pot actually occupies, screen up, at pot height. Do not point it at the window; that measures the window, not the spot. And treat a single reading as a snapshot. The same shelf can read 2,000 lux on a clear morning and 400 on an overcast afternoon, which is why serious estimates work from the typical day rather than the lucky one.

The same reading is not the same answer

Here is the point of this whole page in one worked example. Take a spot 1.5 metres in from a north-facing window. Under typical clear conditions that estimates to about 2,200 lux, which is a solid medium-tier reading: a pothos or a monstera there is comfortable, with room to spare.

Now put a croton in the same spot. Same light, same 2,200 lux, and the verdict drops to a caution, because a croton is a high-tier plant and the number that flattered the pothos runs thin for it.

Croton

Worth a try

It can work here with a little care.

Light

A little dim, but workable

Temperature

Comfortable temperature

Humidity

Humidity suits it

Airflow

Airflow suits it

Worked example: Croton 1.5 m in from a north-facing window, air 23 °C and 55% humidity, light airflow. Your spot will score differently. Run it for your own spot →

Everything else on that card is green. The temperature suits it, the humidity suits it, the air suits it. Light is the one dimension you cannot judge by standing in the room, and it is the one that quietly decides whether this plant grows or merely persists.

The numbers that look wrong

Below about 50 lux you are not in a low-light spot, you are in a no-light spot. When we measured six points across one ordinary living room, the dark corner read 18 lux. No tier contains that number. Tolerance gets a tough plant through a dim winter; it does not get any plant through a corner the light never reaches. The full six-point measurement is here.

Above about 30,000 lux you are reading direct sun. That is not an error, it is just a different question. Direct sun readings swing enormously with the hour and the season, and for most foliage plants the concern flips from not enough to too much, too fast. The sill plants in the very-high tier are the ones built for it.

And if your reading seems to disagree with a plant that is visibly thriving, believe the plant. A reading is one moment; the plant is the average of every hour it has stood there.

About this page

The tier boundaries are conventions, the foot-candle brackets long used in interior growing, converted at one foot-candle to 10.76 lux and rounded. Different references draw the lines in slightly different places, which is why the lookup flags readings near a boundary instead of pretending the line is sharp.

The plant lists come from our curated care data, where each species carries a light tier along with its temperature, humidity and airflow preferences. The worked example above is a real engine result, not a drawing of one: the light estimate comes from window direction and distance under typical clear conditions, and the verdict is produced by the same scoring that runs in the app and in the free spot checker on this site.

The 18 lux corner was measured, modestly: a phone laid flat at pot height, one clear day, one room, single samples. Where a figure on this page is an estimate we have said so.

Plant photo credits

Questions, answered honestly

How many lux do plants need to grow?

It depends entirely on the plant. Low-light species hold steady from roughly 270 lux, the big middle group of foliage plants does well from about 800 to 1,600 lux, plants sold as bright-light species want 1,600 to around 10,800 lux, and true sun lovers such as succulents and citrus want more than that. One number cannot answer for all plants, which is why this page asks for your reading and the plant together.

Is 500 lux enough for plants?

For the low-light group, yes. A snake plant, ZZ plant or peace lily sits comfortably at 500 lux. For the middle group it is thin: a pothos survives there but grows slowly. For anything sold as a bright-light plant, 500 lux is well under the line and the plant will decline over months rather than days.

What can grow in 200 lux?

Almost nothing grows at 200 lux, and the honest phrasing matters: a few tough species survive there. Snake plants, ZZ plants and cast iron plants hold at that level without putting out much new growth. Below roughly 50 lux you are out of plant territory altogether. The darkest corner we measured in a real living room read 18 lux, and that is a no-light spot, not a low-light spot.

Are lux and foot-candles the same thing?

They measure the same thing on different scales. One foot-candle is about 10.76 lux. Older gardening references use foot-candles, most phone meters read lux, and the converter on this page switches between the two so you can use either.

Find the right spot.

Free to start. Honest all the way through.

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